Notes from the Field

At McDuff's suggestion, I left the safe, fortress-eque confines of the Lab and ventured out into the world to meet Guiseppe Vajra and taste the wines of his family's domain.

I need to get out more often.

Guiseppe was charming, engaging and extremely knowledgeable about his family's vineyards and viticulture. The wines he poured -- from an unexpected Piemontese Riesling to the single-vineyard Bricco delle Viole Barolo -- were exceptional.

The Vajras farm organically and pick by hand. The wines are beautifully expressive of their terroir. And they have some sensational parcels, including vineyards in the Serralunga across the autostrada from Bruno Giacosa's famed Le Rocche del Falletto.

The 2007 Langhe Bianco is made from Riesling vines that Guiseppe's father planted in the early 80s. When I said I hadn't realized that Riesling was allowed by the Langhe DOC, Guiseppe told me, "They allow it, but it's not recommended." Should be. This is sensational wine, a very serious dry white, and a definitive triumph of vineyard over varietal. The finish is so purely mineral that you can differentiate between limestone and granite.

The domain's tête de Cuvée is a single vinyard Barolo, the Bricco delle Viole planted just after the Second World War. Guiseppe poured the current release, the 2004 vintage. The wine is densely structured, with layers of fennel spice, red fruit, dark berries and a clear vineyard signature. It is very young, but unlike other "traditional" Barolos I know, this is extremely approachable even now.

The whole catalog is worth seeking out, especially the rustic Langhe Rosso Kye made from Friesa, a traditional Piedmont grape perhaps related to Nebbiolo. And if you get a chance to taste with Guiseppe, you don't want to miss that opportunity.

Elvino sourced Piemontese cheeses and fresh bread to pair with the wines. And Bart Miali's shop and inventory is looking better every time I stop in.

I will definitely try to make a habit of getting out of the Lab.

Lab Field Trip

Tasting note wunderkind, David McDuff, called the Lab to let us know that Guiseppe Vajra will be in Venice (California) pouring wines from his family's Piedmont (Italy) estate this Thursday at Elvino on Abbot Kinney.

I called Bart Miali, owner of said Elvino, to confirm the event. Guiseppe will be there from 6PM until the shop closes (which is when everyone leaves, but not before 8PM).


McDuff has some details on the Vajra line up here, if you're interested.

Playing Through Pain

So our reunion, Piemontese dinner almost didn't happen. Neidorf blew a tendon in his thumb at a speed chess tournament on Saturday, and we were forced to consider rescheduling. But with an aluminum splint on his hand and a belly full of homemade Demerol, he sucked it up, and we soldiered on.

Over dinner, we worked our way through a full flight of (almost) all Piedmont wines, sparkling aperitif to dessert wine. Here's the line up:

Sandro Fay, Drei Es, Spumante Metodo Classico, NV. Actually, this is from Lombardy (the neighboring state). But it's a blanc de noirs made entirely from Nebbiolo. And it's awesome. And Nebbiolo (did I mention that it's 100% Nebbiolo?), so we figured we'd let it play. Metodo Classico means Fay makes this like like Champagne with a secondary fermentation in the bottle on the lees. It is rich and muscular, with ripe apple and red-fruit flavors and an intense, chalky minerality. The nose is brioche with subtle, earthy notes of cured meats and mushroom. This is an exceptional wine and my favorite of the evening (even if it's not actually from Piedmont).

Bruno Giacosa, Roero Arneis, 2007. Bruno Giacosa invented Piedmont. Okay, that's not exactly true. Maybe it was Garibaldi's idea originally (pictured). Or Mazzini's. But Giacosa is an iconic winemaker and his reputation and that of the region are densely intertwined. Made from the Arneis grape, grown in the Roero hills of Southeastern Piedmont, this wine is crisp, aromatic and evocative of those hills. Aromas of orchard fruit, wet stones and straw. Flavors of apple and nectarine with a lively acidity and a bracing, gravelly core.

Bruno Giacosa, Barolo, Falletto, 2000. Giacosa invented Barolo. Okay, again I'm exaggerating. But less so this time. Giacosa has been long regarded as Piemonte's chief traditionalist. He makes old-school Barolo, fermented in tanks and aged in big vats called botti. This one is still young, and took 3 hours in a decanter to show. The nose is plum, raspberry and green stems carrying along a subtle earthy element of dry soil. Poised and precise, this is dense in three directions with bright fruit and pepper spice. The tannins bite hard but can't mask a beautiful finish of rocks and mocha.

Produtori del Barbaresco, Barbaresco, 2004. The Produtori is a cooperative of growers that dates back to the late 1950s and to a communal tradition going back to the late 19th century. Independent, mostly family-owned, farms pool resources and share expenses. Unlike Giacosa's single-vineyard wine, the combined effort of the Produttori results in a representative expression of the entire vintage. Which in 2004 was exemplary. Like many "big" vintages, this is dominated by ripe fruit flavors, wild berries and plum. And painfully young; the tannic sting makes your eyes water.

Coppo, Brachetto d'Acqui, 2006. Brachetto d'Acqui is regarded as the perfect match for chocolate, a myth no doubt perpetuated by producers of the stuff. Nevertheless, I always find it beguiling. And it's low alcohol (this one was 5.5%), so you can pound it down at the end of the night without conjuring room spins. It's a sweet mix of alcoholic black cherry soda and pixie dust.

Everyone agreed the almost all Piedmont wine night was a hit. Except Neidorf. He passed out under the table after the pasta course.

Thanks Crime Dog for organizing the community forum.

This is still not a blog.

(chess pic: © Ff0000 | Dreamstime.com)