December 13, 2009

An Education

As I mentioned, I was a little apprehensive opening the next installment of the Evolution (Red) series. The last bottle drank older than its years. I feared the 2001 vintage was set for early expiration.

So it was a startling epiphany when I tasted 2001 Vosne-Romanée last night.

The wine was really good. Way better than the last one.

All the architecture was there. But more fruit. Denser, more approachable. Stewed fruit, blackboard chalk, grape stems, white pepper and sandalwood on the nose. On the palate, tart cherry, allspice, leather, minerals and mocha.

I don't know if the last bottle was flawed, if slightly...

The Confurons have been vignerons for more than three centuries. More recently (80s), Jacky Confuron used careful vineyard management, grape selection and punched down the cap with his feet and so developed a reputation for making highly structured, old-school wines. More recently still (now), his sons Yves and Jean-Pierre have taken the helm but have continued making wines like Dad. The vineyards have NEVER seen pesticides, not even when this was fashionable. Vines are old. Yields are low. The wines have a reputation for their ability to age.

So maybe this wine is just coming into its own.

I've got nine to go. So I sure hope so.

I'll make good on my compare/contrast 2001 and 2005 tomorrow.

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